Here in the land of Our Blessed Lord for the first time, I had arranged to take a course in Arabic at Birzeit University near Ramallah, the seat of the Palestinian Authority. Birzeit (approx. population of 8500) is an ancient and traditionally Christian town and is still largely Christian with a large Latin Rite Catholic Church (the steeple at the right). The priests wear cassocks on the street, so I fit right in. The Palestinians, Muslims and Christians, are very respectful of and friendly to priests. The parish is very active and there are many activities which include processions: e.g. in my short stay so far (ten days) we have had two May processions and an outdoor kindergarten graduation and a funeral and street procession of the mother of a priest: the Latin Patriarch and his predecessor and a couple of other bishops and around twenty other priests participated.
As I write the minaret call to prayer is sounding (as it does five times a day). The Muslims are fascinating. They act just like everyone else, except most of the women wear their traditional and very beautiful traditional long colorful dresses and shawls with head completed covered. The other day at the university the director of the program assigned a Muslim female student as my conversation partner. So, me in my cassock, we sat down with a dozen other female students on the steps of one of the academic buildings as they enthusiastically and joyfully helped me get through some of the more difficult Arabic pronunciation. I was enchanted by their beauty, innocence, simplicity, friendliness and refinement. At the same time I considered how comical the scene was. Here I am, a Roman Catholic priest at the "Hamas" University surrounded by Muslim young ladies. I could not help to think first that that is a picture that I have to get before I leave (if my friends could see me now!) and, second, that we must be breaking at least some Muslim law! Well, the following day I received word that the young lady would no longer be my tutor and I now have a young Muslim male student tutoring me with just as much enthusiasm. I think I'll keep it low key this time!
Back in my town I have been mingling with the youngsters at the couple of pool halls in town: nice tables! They have a policy: loser pays. Well, I have played alot and paid only once! They are all enthusiastic (Muslim and Christian alike) to play with the priest. The environment is very wholesome, typically Mediterranean (you can see the sea from here on a clear day just beyond the Tel Aviv skyline), with no drinking and no women out a night! The greatest scandal is the pool shark priest!
By the way, yesterday I was in Ramallah for the second time and my first time alone. I loved it! It was just like being anywhere in Greece or Italy or Spain. Everyone is great and very welcoming. The food is great and I have not gotten sick, except perhaps a bit homesick. And the climate is wonderful. This is an essential and crucial and very much alive part of the Holy Land. I would dare to say that this is the heart of the Holy Land, at least the Christian heart, viz. the Palestinian Christians (the Christian Philistines (not Arabs!) , as they term themselves). "Palestine" in Arabic is said "Philistine".
Pope Benedict is scheduled to come to Lebanon in September.
I better go, it's time to shoot pool.
Tomorrow is my first Philistine wedding experience. It should be great!